|
|
Post by esxman on Nov 5, 2017 16:47:31 GMT 8
Hi from esxman (Phil)
I bought the W1 as a replacement for the Yale wireless alarm I have been running for about 7 years , the problem with that was loss of sensitivity to the alarm box and several sensors , it was a doddle to set up .... thinking this W1 would be similar . The first prob I found was the .app from the app store was not the same as they show on YouTube , otherwise I could have done everything off the app ! . I managed to install all my sensors for the doors and windows , the keycode box for the wall ,the internal siren .... but my stumbling block is this external solar alarm , Ive tried and tried from the video on YouTube , its not very clear and theres a lot of fumbling going on!, I tried from the manual , the most I can get it to do is to acknowledge arming and disarming from the keyfob , but it wont hoot if you breach a door sensor , the host box alarms as does the internal siren , but the main alarm box stays silent . Can someone who has gone before me put me straight with the sequence in which to incorporate this unit, oh and how about the tamper ,will it start screaming before it get it put onto the wall ? . I m sitting here with the batteries out of the siren , not knowing howto proceed , so any help would be gratefully received thanks Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by esxman on Nov 7, 2017 1:14:08 GMT 8
Panic over , I didn't realise you had to link every device to the outside alarm too ,not only the host , the internal sounder but the solar too has to learn the accessories .My one prob now is the smoke detector , it seems way too sensitive , I dont know wether its faulty .... it doesn't alarm in the fresh air outside , but its giving false alarms indoors , even when there no cooking going on!. I also found a better phone .app , more on it than W1 , it is called Ani Wifi Alarm System ... enjoy .... Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by Russel on Nov 7, 2017 15:31:38 GMT 8
Thanks Phil for your feedback. Yer the v2 app is only a couple of months old so probably no videos on youtube yet, I say same goes for instructions in the manual for the app. My understanding of the setup process is W1 is the central unit. Detectors are bonded to a zone of your choosing, you then set the zone property how you want the zone to act when a detector triggers, the outside and inside siren is bonded to W1 and in the zones you turn the siren on or off for each zone. Make sure you zones are set accordingly. So smoke alarm/s should be in there own zone and set to emergency (so they will go off regardless of armed state). And door sensors usually in their own zone and set to stay so you can set the alarm to stay at night and your doors are armed. I have 2 of these smoke alarms above the breakfast bar in my kitchen and another in the garage it's only gone off once when the missus was burning something in the kitchen other than that no false alarms. The way they work is by shining a beam of light at a sensor inside the unit and if the smoke passes through the smoke detector it blocks the beam from hitting the sensor the unit will trigger. So if your getting false alarms on the smoke alarm you are looking at reasons why the light beam inside the unit is getting blocked. Outside inside should make no difference, if you are changing anything by moving inside and out, it would be wind speed over the sensor and UV light or do perhaps you are turning the unit face down inside and face up outside which could move a loose part inside the unit.  |
|
|
|
Post by esxman on Nov 24, 2017 23:49:43 GMT 8
thanks Russel for the advice with the smoke alarm , I know they have an ionisation chamber, thats where the smoke/no smoke info is generated, maybe will play around , different sightings , move it to upstairs nearer the sleeping quarters .We use the alarm at night for peace of mind when we are asleep . One thing that I cannot yet figure out is, in the manual it intimates if there is an open detector , e.g. a window sensor , the alarm system will tell you, once you try and arm it, that the circuit is not complete . Each detector boasts a 12V battery as opposed to the shirt buttons I had on the Yale alarm , but theres no mention if or not the detector will send a "battery low" to the hub , like the Yale did.... anyone come across this yet ?
|
|
|
|
Post by Russel on Nov 28, 2017 10:29:56 GMT 8
No low battery is annoying, i have been buying the cheap batteries, but have started getting annoyed for the PIR sensors especially burn them up quick. I around 4 times a year I go through with a battery tester (which around $3 on ebay) and check the lot. I also bought some slightly more heavier duty batteries.
To my knowledge W1 does not support checking if sensors are open when arming this is only available on the higher priced units.
|
|
|
|
Post by esxman on Dec 3, 2017 21:49:18 GMT 8
Thanks Russel ,
I too have a satellite phone Voip , and the W1 does not seem compatable with it , I have tried daisy chaining it with the phone , the phone rings 3 times on incoming calls and then cuts off! . I can make outgoing calls ok . The weird part is , the previous alarm worked the telecommunications part ok , it dialled out fine , It worked via a Belkin piggyback unit , which I tried on this W1 and didnt interfere with phone at all. So anyone that is stuck with a Voip phone service , maybe not the best telecommunicating alarm to buy .
|
|
